DialogueON: Overconsumption

On 27th March, ODIF hosted our monthly DialogueON series, bringing together a diverse group of participants to explore sustainability within the textiles and fashion industries. While fast fashion often feels accessible and affordable, it continues to rely on systems that place significant strain on both the environment and the people producing our clothes. This session highlighted why rethinking our relationship with clothing is not only necessary, but a key part of our shared climate responsibility.

Antoinette on Durability

We were delighted to welcome our first speaker, Antoinette Garzon, whose work sits at the intersection of fashion, sustainability, human rights, and linguistics. Drawing on her experience as a tailor in Medellín, Colombia, and as a former lingerie shop owner, Antoinette offered a powerful Global South perspective on sustainability to challenge dominant narratives. She encouraged participants to reconsider what sustainability really means, emphasising that environmental concerns cannot be separated from social justice and economic realities.

Antoinette highlighted that durability is often overlooked in mainstream sustainability conversations. In many parts of South America, she explained, sustainability has historically been a matter of survival rather than innovation. Limited access to resources meant that clothing had to be made to last, often passed down through generations. This stands in contrast to fast fashion models, where durability is rarely prioritised. She also challenged assumptions around certifications, noting that while EU benchmarks and organic labels are important, they do not fully capture the realities of sustainable practices globally. She argued that makers and consumers need to “go back to basics,” prioritising natural fibres, long-lasting garments, and mindful consumption over corporate-driven narratives.

Harriet on the Sustainability Triangle

Our second speaker, Harriet Cleary, founder of Sew Me Sunshine, built on these ideas by offering insight into the complexities of fabric production and retail. As both a sewer and business owner, Harriet spoke about the environmental and social impacts embedded within the textile industry, from exponential fibre production to significant water usage and carbon emissions. She reinforced the importance of viewing sustainability through a three-part triangle of environment, people, and economy. She highlighted that all three must be balanced to create meaningful change.

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Harriet also unpacked some of the terminology often used in the fashion industry. She discussed certifications such as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) and compared them to stricter standards like GOTS, encouraging participants to look beyond labels and understand what they truly represent. She touched on the complexities of recycled materials, such as Econyl, noting that while they offer innovative solutions, they can also involve intensive chemical processes and raise questions about durability and long-term impact. Similarly, she explored fabrics like Tencel and Ecovero, which aim to offer more sustainable alternatives, and stressed the importance of transparency through improved labelling and emerging concepts like textile passports. A particularly engaging part of Harriet’s discussion focused on “deadstock” materials. She encouraged participants to think critically about what qualifies as genuine deadstock versus overproduction, while also recognising the value of repurposing existing materials. While textiles may never be 100% sustainable, small, informed changes in how we source, make, and use clothing can have a significant impact.

The Dialogue

The discussion that followed was rich and thought-provoking. Participants reflected on what sustainability means in their own contexts, raising questions about buying less, mending clothes, and the balance between durability and biodegradability. Both speakers emphasised the importance of extending the life of garments, whether through repair, reuse, or passing items on.

There were also important contributions from participants across different regions, highlighting challenges such as access to sustainable materials, the role of local sourcing, and the need for stronger political will and education. Conversations touched on affordability and the potential of concepts like “re-wear” to make sustainability more accessible. Others raised questions about how profits from textile industries can better benefit local communities, underlining the importance of equity and knowledge-sharing.

The session concluded with a powerful reminder from both speakers. Antoinette urged us to look to the Global South for existing knowledge and practices, encouraging a return to simplicity, durability, and confidence in local solutions. Harriet reinforced the importance of education and awareness, noting that more conscious consumption and informed decision-making are essential steps forward.

We want to say a huge thank you to everyone who joined and contributed to this dialogue. It was an inspiring and insightful event that sparked meaningful conversations across borders and perspectives. Let’s continue to challenge overconsumption, deepen our understanding, and take collective responsibility for the impact of our clothing.

~Naomi Lea